Easily one of the best places to eat in Croydon. A pretty bold claim that can be backed up with more than sufficient evidence. Located on Frith Road just off Church Street opposite Surrey Market, Cockneys of Croydon is one of Croydon’s hidden gems. A traditional London pie and eel house. Opening times, Monday – Saturday 10am-5.30pm.

Before we delve in we should probably put some sort of context on this review/recommendation. It is a celebration of authentic London culture, preserving local eateries, supporting the preparation of fresh food, community and protecting such institutions against the onslaught of gentrification taking place in London. Let’s keep it authentic and not “fake authentic”.

Pie and mash originated in East London during the Victorian era. The choice of food for the working class. The majority of shops were located in either East or South East London. At the time the filling of the pie consisted of European Eels as they were abundant in the murky waters of the Thames. As the docklands and industrialisation moved on from East London and the Eel population declined, minced beef became the favoured substitute. Along side pie and mash you’ll have jellied eels as a offering. Not everyone’s cuppa-tea but definitely worth a try just the once.

There was a big decline in the popularity of traditional pie and mash shops during the early noughties, however in recent years they’ve been on the increase as they’ve become a symbol of traditional London amongst the homogenisation and yuppification of eating culture in the capital. Many people who used to live in the London make regular trips on weekends to treat themselves to a cheeky pie and mash. Don’t forget a Big Mac meal cost the same a single pie and mash.

Back to subject we were talking about, Cockneys of Croydon. It has kept its original feel and charm. Always full of locals throughout the course of the day. The decor consists of a combination of white and green tiles, classic intimate wooden seating and mirrors. The wall behind the ordering point has a centred menu, which is surrounded with currency from over the world (including some of our notes from our travels).

The service is great and always super-quick. You can be eating within 60 seconds of entering the shop. Now that’s fast food. Pies constantly being baked and served fresh. Made using the exact methods of pre-war East London. The prices here are what you call affordable and definitely value-for-money. Fresh food for the masses.

You can see the different textures of the shortcrust pastry on top and the suet pastry on the body of the pie. The pie itself is compact with meat and compliments the perfectly soft velvet mash. The serving of liquor is always the right amount depending on your portion size. The parsley liquor has a creamy colour which works well against the green of the parsley. Both the taste and appearance go hand-in-hand to make for a pleasant and fulfilling eating experience. It’s honest and nostalgic.

You can’t go wrong with Cockney’s of Croydon. Fresh, value-for-money, great service, local and traditonal (just like Pearly Kings and Queens of East London). Another shop we recommend is Nathan’s around the corner from Upton Park stadium, home of West Ham United.

Words and photos by Hark and Dan

Cockneys of Croydon: Pie & Mash Shop
51 Frith Road, Croydon CR0 1TB
020 8680 4512
Opening times, Monday – Sunday 10am-5.30pm